"Going to Morocco has been a highlight of my studies"
Studying a language overseas is an amazing experience. It adds considerable depth to your studies in Australia, whether in politics, international relations, history, or simply arts. I undertook Arabic at Mohammad V University in Rabat, Morocco in June/July 2009. This should have been my mid-year break in between Semester 1 and 2 at ANU but going to Morocco has been a highlight of my studies.
Being able to immerse myself in a culture and language that I am studying has provided a real insight into real-world situations. I can’t recommend overseas study highly enough. Traditionally Australian universities have not focused on exchange programs like their USA and British counterparts, perhaps due to distances and costs, but this is changing with OS-HELP loans, scholarships and travel grant assistance, which are all often available to help make the experience much more affordable.
There were 19 students in the course while I was there, and only 3 in my beginners class. After a thorough orientation, we were matched with a host family that would look after us for the duration of our stay. I chose a family that didn't speak English (everyone in Morocco speaks Arabic and French) to maximise the experience. The host family stay was amazing. My host father and brother (10yo) picked me up from the university and took me home to their house which was in the old medina of Rabat. Once meeting all the family, a customary and lengthy delight of Moroccan culture, I was treated to the first of many fantastic Moroccan meals and several glasses of the super-sweet mint tea.
The host family were wonderful, helpful, kind, generous - true ambassadors for Morocco. My family showed me to the closest bus stop and even took the bus with me some mornings to keep me company. Getting to and from the University was easier than it was in Australia!! The local mosque was 20m away (many an early morning start with the azan or 'call to prayer'), and the Hammam (bath-house) was about 200m from the house I stayed in. If you go to Morocco a trip to the local hammam is a must.
The language course was intensive and was conducted entirely in Modern Standard Arabic - important for quality assurance and academic standards. We started at 8.30am each morning and finished at 3.30pm, and covered vocab and listening, grammar, writing, speaking and reading. Each day contained additional vocabulary and dealt with key concepts of the language, progressing quickly, but thoroughly through the early stages of language acquisition. There was also an hour of Darija (Moroccan Arabic) to help students interact with the locals. Exams were held at the end of every week, as well as being assessed throughout the classes. Homework (this took around 3-4 hours each day) was also given daily and greatly assisted in the overall study. There was a final exam which covered everything that had been learnt through the course.
"There is a city in northern Morocco called Taza, where the inhabitants are known as Tazzi's. One of my teachers was from this city and as soon he found out I was from Tasmania (which we call Tassie) that was it - we were brothers!!!"
Twice a week there were cultural events such as Moroccan cooking or movies after class had finished. The University also arranged two small excursions, one to Asilah, a fantastic little fishing village in the north, and another to Essaouria to the south, known for its great beaches and surfing. The staff were extremely professional and helpful, and were so enthusiastic about having a student come all the way from Australia to study their language and culture. For example, there is a city in northern Morocco called Taza, where the inhabitants are known as Tazzi's. One of my teachers was from this city and as soon he found out I was from Tasmania (which we call Tassie) that was it - we were brothers!!!
Travelling so far I arrived a few days earlier to recover from the flights. This also gave me an opportunity to head south and see Marrakech - possibly the best city in Morocco Experiencing the culture that your are studying is a great way to improve your understanding and to put the language that you are learning into practice. Marrakech has an amazing history from its days as the final destination of the Sahara Caravans. Djemaa el-Fna is the centre square, and the thriving heart of the city, it comes alive at night but during the day it is filled with snake charmers, orange juice stalls, and spice shops. Second to Djemaa el-Fna are the endless souks and streets you can buy carpets, tea sets, leather products, anything you can imagine. Don't even bother with a map, just walk were you want and enjoy.
For the party-minded, Marrakech also has Africa’s largest nightclub - Pacha (an off-shoot of the clubs in London and Ibiza). It has a setting and a sound system unlike anything else I have seen. Marrakech is also a good base for getting out into the Sahara Desert. On a separate trip, four other language students and myself hired a guide and driver to take us up through the Atlas Mountains and into the Sahara. This was incredible - a totally different Morocco to explore. Highlights include getting into Berber Caves and drinking tea, the amazing scenery and landscape, the film studios at Ouarzazate were you can still see the sets of films like Gladiator and Kingdom of Heaven, 3 hours in a Camel Caravan into the Sahara, Dades and Todra Gorges and sleeping in a sandstorm in the desert. Many of the banks in Morocco have digital clock/date/temp signs and the sign in last town before we entered desert was reading 55 degrees!!
Another weekend I headed north to Fes and Meknes via train (it was easier to catch trains in Morocco than it is in Australia, too!!). Fes is an amazing city on its on, with the oldest university in the world, and the largest car-free CBD in the world. The streets are so thin that not only can you not fit a car, to get along some you have to walk sideways to get through!! Fez is also renowned for its leather tanneries, a smelly, but memorable experience. Outside of Meknes are the ruins of an old Carthage and Roman city which looks like a mini Roman Forum…something I did not expect to find in Morocco.
Morocco is a country that's changing, while still an Islamic country, and although parts are conservative it is quite progressive. An obvious example is fashion. The Hijab is quite common for women to wear and yet on the beach, bikinis are all the rage. There are strong ties to Spain (being less than 1 hour on a Ferry), and France (Morocco was a French protectorate until independence in 1956). There are close ties to the Middle East and the Arab world through religion and language, and also a strong feeling of being part of Africa. For female students, no problems were raised and the University took particular care to ensure everyone’s safety - you will get marriage proposals though, so be prepared to break some hearts!
Morocco is such a wonderful destination with so much diversity of landscape, people and culture. But there are similarities with Australian culture - family and friends are all important, rarely will you get time to yourself. There is a strong beach culture if you’re anywhere near the coast. Moroccans also have a love of good food, so you'll never go hungry…I started walking to and from the university to burn off all the food I ate! Many meals resemble an Aussie BBQ but with a few more flavours. Moroccan hospitality lived up to everything I had heard, from the famous Mint Tea (so sweet you can feel yourself booking an appointment at the dentist as you drink it) to the warm handshakes that reach to your heart.
For those looking to take their Arabic to the next level I recommend time in Morocco very highly. AIM Overseas will help set this up for you - www.aimoverseas.com.au. Intensive study and total immersion in the language and culture really helps the acquisition and retention of the language. For those just looking for something different in their studies, Morocco will certainly give you this. Studying overseas has greatly added my studies and was an experience to remember.
All photos and text by Peter Ford. All rights reserved.
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